A few kilometres into the walk I started regretting the suggestion of pasta, pesto and a Woolies cheese selection. Nevertheless, my 10kg bag had a promise of a warm meal once we had settled at the top. Apart from being a little heavier than my hand bag which I am used to carrying, my rucksack also meant I felt a little lopsided which didn’t help my moments of vertigo and already questionable sense of balance. We had a few moments where my whimpering nearly got the better of us, but Rich’s quiet patience and gentle encouraging got me through the hike, and more importantly up the 80 step chain ladder. For those of you that get vertigo, you’ll understand the challenge of clinging to a sturdy, yet swaying ladder attached to wall of rock. However, faced with no other option than to get it over and done with and not hold up the queue of German hikers behind you, what else can you do but pretend it is just you and the ladder and that the 1km drop below doesn’t exist.
After making it to the top, we celebrated with some cheese provitas, and then continued to find a good spot to pitch our tent. I had pictured a little river, with some shielding trees and soft grass, however the reality was a little harsher. Being one of the highest points in the country, the wind whips across the top of the mountain, not allowing anything of any substantial height to grow. After exploring a little and admiring the spectacular views and rock formations, we eventually found a little plot of sand. It was at this point that we were faced with our first challenge – putting up a new tent with no instructions included, in a bitterly cold, howling wind. Eventually some fellow campers, having had their fill of amusement watching us struggle, strolled over to assist. They politely explained that the poles attach to the outside of the tent and shouldn’t be forced into places where they didn’t belong. My desperation subsided somewhat and we decided to take our sleeping bags and a glass of wine to the edge of the mountain to watch the sun set. I thought of my friends back in Jo’burg sipping cocktails at the Westcliff and decided that despite the extreme conditions, I would rather be overlooking the world and taking in the beauty of the country we sometimes take for granted.
The sun having set, and the cold and wind building, we headed back to our tent to cook our dinner. And here we were faced with our next challenge. The top of the gas burner was nowhere to be found. Accepting that our chilly bodies weren’t going to be comforted with a good hot plate of food, we opened our cans of soup, prepared to eat it cold. In the process I burned my hand on the top of the gas lamp, which we discovered could serve as a heating appliance if we balanced the cans on top of the light. It was at this point that we decided maybe one night on top of the mountain would suffice on this trip.
Despite a litre and half of box wine to help us sleep (which I don’t recommend as a suitable solution), we didn’t get very much rest. The wind beat against our tent most of the night and Rich tossed and turned having given up his warm down sleeping bag for a handkerchief-thin one. At 5am, the light start seeping through our tent we decided we might as well drag ourselves into the elements to watch the sun rise. It was at this point that I realised why we were doing this. The scene before us was like nothing I had ever seen before – rows of mountains, interlaced with soft lingering clouds, and the majestic cliffs reflecting the early light, made me feel overwhelmed with gratitude and a sense of peacefulness. How lucky I was to have this opportunity, and realise that sometimes the most simple and basic pleasures are the most fulfilling.
A trip of this nature may have its hardships, but if I managed it, I guarantee most of you would too. I would encourage everyone to try this experience at least once in your lives. Go with a group of friends (and ensure you have a few strong men who are willing to prove their manliness by carrying the heavier bags) or with a partner to really explore what you mean to each other (and how you smell after not washing for 2 days!) Take a gas cooker – this is highly recommended for a cup of coffee and much needed warm food – as well as warm clothes. Don’t over pack. A weather forecast will also help you to plan. It will be an experience you can be proud of, and will remind you of the real joy of life. |